Studying History

Since long, I wanted to write various blog posts to share my observations, reading, travel and some times pictures taken by me while travelling through India. I travel a lot for professional work. However, I make it a point to spare a day or two to see the place/town. During last few years, I had the opportunity to travel abroad too. I even lived for six months in the little island country Mauritius on professional assignment. I found that, majority of persons, Indian as well as foreign, with whom I interacted, were unaware of India's history, historical places, landmark events of Indian history, India's culture, it's rich tradition of music and food. Every time, I had in mind to do something about this in my own little way. 

The book presented to me by my father in 1972

I am a student of India's history since last about 40 years. I started with history of Marathas i.e. the life and times of Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj when I was still in school. That was followed by detail study on 'Peshvai' i.e. the Peshvas who were Prime Ministers of the Maratha empire and who administered the empire from Pune while the capital was at Satara. My father presented me a book, which is essentially a biography of Ch. Shivaji Maharaj, founder of Maratha empire. The book is still the last word in the life and times of Ch. Shivaji Maharaj. I still the read the book occasionally.

Then I took up the topic of 'Kutubshhahi' and 'Nizamshahi' i.e. history of Hyderabad and Berar. Thereafter I took up history of Rajasthan and then Punjab.

I spent considerable amount of time in studying the history of partition of India, which essentially was about the western part of the sub-continent. I was so mush involved in that study that I landed up learning Punjabi. However, while studying history of partition of India then, I made a mistake, which I now learn, that it is common. I totally neglected the eastern part of the story! The partition of Bengal and creation of east Pakistan which is now known as Bangladesh. I have now corrected my mistake and since last one year or so, started studying history of Bengal and the partition of Bengal. I had brief introduction to Bengal in 1986. I tried to gather material on Bengal's history but could not do so in systematic manner. I did read some stray material on Bengal intermittently. Now I have so much material in hand, which may last for a year or two!

While studying history of all these areas, essentially, the relevant part of history of British empire in India was also covered. I wanted to study the history of British in India in comprehensive and systematic manner but could not do so for various reasons. Now I propose to do it starting with history of Bengal.

I propose to write about history of various parts of India, which I studied, historical places, various cities and villages, Indian culture, Indian food, Indian music and of course my rambles in relation to these topics.

Hyderabadi Manse

Reading "Hyderabadi Manse" a book on the history of the men in the Court of last Nizam of Hyderabad in Marathi, including the last Nizam himself! I know many Hyderabadi personalities from the Court of the last Nizam of Hyderabad who left indelible impression on my mind while I was growing up. Then, I did not understand their importance or significance in the life of my forefathers. But since last 30+ years, I started to understand what they did to the lives of my forefathers. And the study still continues! So fascinating and exiting!

Roja, Eid and other things in Hyderabadi Tehjeeb!

The year was 1994. One fine morning at about 11 am we, the entire family, landed at Nampally Railway station from Tirupati. We wanted to catch train the next day for Aurangabad, which leaves from Secunderabad. So I decided to stay at a well-known hotel at Secunderabad which is my favourite since ages.

When we crossed Tank Bund and started passing through Rashtrapati Road (for me its King’s Avenue), I noticed that all the shops were closed. I was surprised. So asked the rikshaw driver, who was a young lad in his 20’s as to what is the matter. He replied ‘kal Eid hain’.

I was surprised, because I too am is a pucca Aurangabadi at heart and I knew that there was no Eid nearby. So asked him ‘kaisi Eid hazrat?’ He said ‘aaj roja hain aur kal Eid hain’. He was cool while answering.

I realised that there must be something. I started thinking.  And then, I suddenly realised that the next day was ‘Mahashivratri’ and hence on that day there was fasting! To conform, I asked him ‘Miyaan, kal Mahashivratri ki Eid hain na?’ He replied, in his typical Hyderabadi accent, ‘ji hauw’!

That’s called Hyderabadi Tehjeeb! I was very fortunate that I grew up at Aurangabad in the same Tehjeeb. Aamen!   

Hyderabad, the city of many faces.............

Hyderabad! The city of pearls and diamonds! The city of Golkonda, Tank Bund, Alfa, Paradise, Bawarchi and Shaadab at Patthar Gatti. Andhra Meal and Biryani! Not to mention Laad Bazar and Chaar Kaman coupled with Charminar Square. It is getting connected with Aurangabad by air from 1st September! One private airline is commencing one scheduled trip to Hyderabad every day for just Rs. 2000! Great boon to people like me who are Hyderabad faddist! Obviously, I am planning a trip to Hyderabad next month.

Authentic way to enjoy Hyderabadi Biryani

The most authentic and correct way to appreciate Hyderabadi Chicken Biryani is to enjoy it with Mirchi-ka-salan, Baghare Baingan and Kachumber. Above all, you HAVE to have it in chowki style. Chowki Dinner is a tradition fading away in Hyderabad itself! I had it many times. But the one I often had at "Shadaab" at Patthar Gatti near Charminar was total divine! Unmatched! I had all what I said just now and above all, with boiled eggs …unlimited! Feels like in heaven! Hazraat, you can still have it………..only problem is that you have to go to Hyderabad!

Tana Shah

Last night I was browsing through various family albums on my laptop. We had many picnics and trips together. Particularly at week ends, we used to go to nearby places such as Daulatabad Fort, Khultabad Ghat and Ellora Caves. Since last five years, the week end picnics because restricted because of the SSC/HSC studies of my daughters. Elder one passed her HSC in 2008 and the younger one passed last week. Elder one has since gone to Mumbai for her studies and the younger one is contemplating to move out of home for her studies. So now we, as parents, are free to resume our favorite week end pursuit.

While browsing the albums, I came across the picture of China Mahal at Daulatabad Fort. What is remaining today is the part of the palace built by Shahjahan. This part was later used by Aurangzeb as prison. The last ruler of Qutbshahi of Golla Konda (Golconda near Hyderabad) Abul Hasan Tana Shah was kept in captivity there for 14 years. Chhatrapati Sambhaji Maharaj was also kept here in captivity for 2 years by Aurangzeb.

During my many sojourns to Hyderabad and of course to Golconda, someone told me that the real name is Golla Konda. In Telugu, Golla means sheep and Konda means hill. The hill where the sheep used to graze was called Golla Konda which later, by variation, became Golconda.

After looking at the pictures, I thought I should write something about the tragic but interesting story of Abul Hasan Tana Shah. His story is of sheer luck and co-incidence. Frankly speaking, he did nothing much to raise to the position he enjoyed for 14 long years as Sultan of Golconda. But at the same time, he fate made him pay heavy price of being the Sultan.

I should start from the point where all will get the reference. Hence I shall start from the well known figure; Mohammed Quli Qutb Shah.

Muhammed Quli Qutb Shah, Sultan of Golconda and founder of the present city of Hyderabad passed away in 1611 AD. He had only one daughter and no son. His daughter, Hayat Bakshi Begum, played very crucial role in the politics of Golconda. Her position was unique. She enjoyed the status vary rarely enjoyed by any lady in the history of any dynasty in the world. She was daughter on one Sultan, wife of his successor and mother of the next ruler! Her husband, Sultan Muhammad was the nephew of Muhammad Quli. Their son, Abdullah later because Sultan Abdullah of Golconda.

Sultan Abdullah had two daughters and no son. Of his two daughters, the marriage of the younger one was objected to by the elder son-in-law who belonged to Mecca. In the circumstances, one Abul Hasan who was remotely related to the royal family and who at that time was living as a disciple of the Sufi Saint, Shah Raju, outside the city of Hyderabad was brought up and married to the princess. Later, through an intrigue in the palace, Abul Hasan became the new Sultan of Golconda. It is not known as to why and how he was considered and selected to marry the princess. Unfortunately, he was destined to be the last Sultan of Qutb Shahi dynasty of Golconda.

The last sultan of Golconda came to the throne in a very unusual manner. According to the treaty with Mughals, Prince Sultan Mohammad was to succeed Sultan Abdullah on the latter's death. But as the fate would have it, the designated successor was imprisoned by Aurangzeb himself for his dereliction and so the question of his succeeding Abdullah did not arise.

The story of Abul Hasan Tana Shah reads like a tragic romance. There are umpteen versions about how he came to be the King, how he ruled for 14 years and how ultimately he was taken prisoner by Aurangzeb to die 14 years later in captivity at Daulatabad. He was popularly known as Tana Shah because of his delicacy of temperament and finesse and not due to his despotic and unpredictive behaviour with which the term is (mis) understood now.

Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj, visited Golconda during the reign of Tana Shah. Maharaj helped Tana Shah in his campaign against his own brothers, the Mughals and Adilshahi of Bijapur. Original documentary evidences are available to show the great pomp and extravagance by which Tana Shah treated Maharaj and how Maharaj was happy with the visit.

The Mughals invaded Golconda and the siege lasted eight months! The brave and heroic defence of Golconda against the Mughal army under the direct command of Aurangzeb makes glorious finale to the story of the Qutb Shahi dynasty.

There is one amusing story too. One night the barking of a pariah dog woke up the garrison just in time to block the entry of the Mughals into the Golconda fort. The dog was honoured with a gold collar and given a place of honour by the side of Tana Shah's throne!

As usual, the Golconda fort was taken by Mughals not by brave fight or war but by deceit and bribery. Bribery seems to be very old phenomenon in India practiced by all outside invaders and rules effectively.

Tana Shah was taken to Mughal camp as a captive. The capture and transfer of Tana Shah to Dulatabad in 1687 ended the Qutb Shahi dynasty which lasted for 169 years! Golconda became part of the Deccan province of the Mughals with capital at Aurangabad.

Tana Shah died in captivity at Daulatabad Fort and was buried at near by Khultabad where is victor Aurangzeb also lies under the same earth! Death is indeed a great equalizer!

Hyderabadi Khana

After writing about Bagare Baingan, I can't resist writing something about Hyderabadi Khana. Hyderabadi Khana as well as Andhra Meal are so close to my heart that I can't live without having at least one dish of it once in a week. As I said earlier, the term Hyderabadi Khana is understood to mean non-vegetarian food and Andhra Meal is commonly understood as vegetarian food.

Hyderabad is famous for its four legacis. Charminar, Golkonda Fort, Salar Jung Museum and Hyderabadi Khana. It is slightly sour, hot and richly endowed with dry fruits, nuts and assorted spices and cooked in asli ghee or groundnut or kardi oil. It has to be enjoyed to be believed. The simple method of slow cooking on coal or wood fire in dum help produce fantastic flavours. All Hyderabadi cooking has to be done itminaan se. There is nothing like "just two minutes" or "zatpat pakao aur phata-phat khao". It is rather criminal to do such things in respect of Hyderabadi Khana.

The wealthy and leisured aristocracy of the erstwhile Nizam State as well as the long peaceful years of their dominance contributed to the development and devotion to this culinary art. After the reign of Sikandar Jah (after whom the cantonment city Secunderabad is named) Hyderabadi aristocracy had nothing substantive to do. All the military responsibility was taken over by British and all major political decisions were take under the influence of British policy of state. This state of affairs went on till 1948 i.e. until the Nizam State was annexed to Union of India by Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel, the then Home Minister of India. Such long period of peace resulted in development of a culture which is unique to Hyderabad. The Hyderabadi culture is a classic blend of Mughalai and Dakkhani cultures. Be it art, music, literature or food, traces of Mughlai culture can be clearly found in many things which are now known as Hyderabadi.

I shall write about Andhra Meal some other time because that too is a topic by itself and not just annam-rassam or perugu annam!

Baghare Baingan

The other day I hosted a dinner for my small group of friends. There is a new restaurant opened in the prime area of the city. When I went to the restaurant, they gave me their menu card to show what they can offer as party menu. One item caught my sight. "Baghare Baingan Hyderabadi" I asked the manager how they make it. He confessed that this is out of his jurisdiction! So I demanded to meet the cook. The cook was summoned and I asked him "kaise banate ho"? He was reluctant to tell me the recipe. I immediately realised and appreciated his etiquettes. Being professional cook; he is not supposed to disclose that! I said ok, at least tell me your procedure broadly. He told me that and I was convinced that here I can get authentic Baghare Baingan-Hyderabadi. Yes, Hyderabadi is important to me because that is unique!

I am great fan of "Hyderabadi Khana" which essentially means non-vegetarian food cooked in Hyderabadi style which is unique. The veg. food is known as Andhra Meal. I am fan of both. Depending upon the mood, I venture to have either of them.

Long back, somewhere in 1986, while roaming on Abids, I found one old book named as "Dawat-E-Hyderabadi" which is written by one lady (Begum) from one aristocratic family of Hyderabad. She was born and bought up in typical nawabi culture of Hyderabad prior to Independence. According to family customs, she was not supposed to even step into the kitchen. In those days, kitchens used to be little bit away from the main building of the house (kothi). The ladies of the house were supposed only to order the khansama through their maid servants. (khansama is different than the cook who is known as bawarchi). The male members of the family were supposed to tell their desire to eat whatever the wish to one lady of the family usually their sister or wife.

Baghare Baingan is the best dish what you can have after sumptuous "dose" of different kebabs. ("dose" used deliberately because kebabs are not alone; they are to be savored with something which is take as dose) After kebabs you are in fact full. But it is not considered civilized unless you eat some type of Indian bread and some rice before you finish off the lunch or dinner. So you can have Baghare Baingan with roti/naan/parantha/kulcha or whatever you have as bread. They are light as compared to mutton or chicken curries and at the same time, leave exactly the same taste in your mouth!

The main secret is…. to make authentic Baghare Baingan you have to stuff and then fry them in asli ghee till light brown before putting them in the gravy and allow them to cook on coal fire in a sealed deg that too …..itminaan se………not to hurry!. Now, please don't ask me what is to be stuffed and how gravy is made; because that’s military secret!

Tank Bund or Hussain Sagar

After posting the Ghazal "tumhare sheher ka mausam...." there are scintillating memories of Tank Bund area in my mind. From 1984 to about 2000 I was studying the history of Deccan with specific reference to Golkonda-Qutub Shai-Asaf Jahi-Berar. I wanted to find authentic information about the area I was born and where my ancestors lived. My family belong to Berar. We have our ancestral agricultural land and home in Berar. Berar was under the rule of Asaf Jahi from 1724 till 1948. In between, the Berar area was taken over by British under a treaty with Nizam, but the Ruler was Nizam and British were administrators. The eldest son of Nizam was designated as Prince of Berar. I will write about Berar in detail some other time.

The Tank Bund area of Hyderabad in my mind is of 1984 and thereabout. Then the Tank Bund was relatively calm and quite. The traffic was there but it was not nuisance. The area was rather romantic I must say. Particularly in the evening, just before the sunset and few hours thereafter, the area was full of cool breeze flowing from Hussain Sagar carrying peculiar scent of "saahil" mixed with "Gulmohour". No wonder, the mahaul used to instantly push me in romantic mood! (Though I never had any aashna!)

The Hussain sagar or Tank Bund as it is popularly called, was built on a tributary of the Musi River during the reign of Ibrahim Quli Qutb Shah in 1562. It is actually a dam which is fed by the Balkapur river which branches off from Musi about 32-33 miles from Hyderabad. The Bund links the twin cities of Hyderabad and Secunderabad and is named after Hussain Shah Wali. The Bund is about one and half miles long and covers an area of about eight square miles. On either sides of the Bund, Ibrahin Quli Qutub Shah built two sarais. On the Secunderabad side, there are four sluices to regulate the level of water in the dam. The construction of the dam was entrusted to Hussain Shah Wali who was son-in-law of Ibrahim Quli Qutb Shah. His tomb is located on today's Golkonda-Mumbai Road.

In the 19th Century, drinking water from Hussain sagar was supplied to Residency area but it was discontinued after commencement of regular water supply from Osman Sagar in 1921.

There is an area on the other side of the Bund i.e. opposite to the lake, which at that time was muddy perhaps because of seepage of water from Bund. Due to the muddy soil, it became breeding ground and heaven for mosquitoes. In Telugu, mosquitoes are called "Domal" or "Domul" or "Domulu" or something like that. So the area came to be known as "Domal Guda" - area of mosquitoes! Later, the seepage was stopped and the area became dry but the name stuck! Today it is one of the posh locality of Hyderabad. Due to the advent of technology, and particularly this internet, I have one friend on Orkut who lives in Domalguda. She has beautiful bungalow and lives there with her husband and two wonderful kids.