Studying History

Since long, I wanted to write various blog posts to share my observations, reading, travel and some times pictures taken by me while travelling through India. I travel a lot for professional work. However, I make it a point to spare a day or two to see the place/town. During last few years, I had the opportunity to travel abroad too. I even lived for six months in the little island country Mauritius on professional assignment. I found that, majority of persons, Indian as well as foreign, with whom I interacted, were unaware of India's history, historical places, landmark events of Indian history, India's culture, it's rich tradition of music and food. Every time, I had in mind to do something about this in my own little way. 

The book presented to me by my father in 1972

I am a student of India's history since last about 40 years. I started with history of Marathas i.e. the life and times of Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj when I was still in school. That was followed by detail study on 'Peshvai' i.e. the Peshvas who were Prime Ministers of the Maratha empire and who administered the empire from Pune while the capital was at Satara. My father presented me a book, which is essentially a biography of Ch. Shivaji Maharaj, founder of Maratha empire. The book is still the last word in the life and times of Ch. Shivaji Maharaj. I still the read the book occasionally.

Then I took up the topic of 'Kutubshhahi' and 'Nizamshahi' i.e. history of Hyderabad and Berar. Thereafter I took up history of Rajasthan and then Punjab.

I spent considerable amount of time in studying the history of partition of India, which essentially was about the western part of the sub-continent. I was so mush involved in that study that I landed up learning Punjabi. However, while studying history of partition of India then, I made a mistake, which I now learn, that it is common. I totally neglected the eastern part of the story! The partition of Bengal and creation of east Pakistan which is now known as Bangladesh. I have now corrected my mistake and since last one year or so, started studying history of Bengal and the partition of Bengal. I had brief introduction to Bengal in 1986. I tried to gather material on Bengal's history but could not do so in systematic manner. I did read some stray material on Bengal intermittently. Now I have so much material in hand, which may last for a year or two!

While studying history of all these areas, essentially, the relevant part of history of British empire in India was also covered. I wanted to study the history of British in India in comprehensive and systematic manner but could not do so for various reasons. Now I propose to do it starting with history of Bengal.

I propose to write about history of various parts of India, which I studied, historical places, various cities and villages, Indian culture, Indian food, Indian music and of course my rambles in relation to these topics.

Mishti, Kalighat and Nirbachoni Sandesh

The love of Bengalis for their mishti is simply admirable. They just love their mishti (Bengali Sweets). All over Kolkata, you will find innumerable mishti shops catering to the budget of every single citizen. The varieties are innumerable too. The shop owners are so imaginative, that they create and modify the misty according to the changing seasons and even the changing moods of the city!

Just visit the famous mishti shop at Golpark circle early in the morning. Silently watch the expressions on the face of the owner, who is sitting at the counter. At that time, his only job is to read the small chits of paper and to collect the money from customers. No one is in a hurry. All are taking their own time to go through the round. But, while doing such mundane job, the expressions on his face are just divine. As if he is sitting in the pooja room of his home and in all sincerity, praying Ma Kaali with fullest devotion!

The scene at the age old and famous mishti shop at Kalighat is little different. However, the underlying mood that can be sensed is no different that the earlier shop. BTW do take a walk from Ravindra Sarovar Metro station to Kalighat Metro station. The area is just poetic. From Ravindra Sarovar station walk down under the Tallygunj bridge and then turn to right. Take Sarat Chandra Avenue and walk down circling the Ravindra Sarovar. I just could not pass from there without taking at least 3-4 pauses. The scene is so beautiful. At the crossing main road turn left. Then via Southern Avenue walk to Kalighat Station. While walking from Southern Avenue, there is one Southy hole in the wall kind eating joint. They serve good idlies and chutney too but the sambar is bit difficult to accept. However, one must accept that fact that, after all, he is in Bengal and not in Matunga or Chennai. On that semi circular road, on both sides, you will find cute bungalows and two storied buildings belonging to the names like Das, Basu, Chatterjee, Makherjee, Ganguly etc etc. The area is belonging to circa 1940's-50's pucca.

Near Kalighat Metro station, there is one authentic Punjabi dhaba. It was just love at first sight! After a gap of about 4 days, I could get daal tadka and tandoori roti there! They serve excellent Tandoori Chicken, daal tadka and tandoori roties directly from the 'bhatti' to your plate. Piping hot. No halt in between. They proved their authenticity to a foodie like me by bringing a blob of white butter in a small plate even without asking.

Near the Kalighat temple, there is a mishti shop which I mentioned above. That's a cult shop more than a century old. The owners and managers of that shop are very imaginative. Sensing the political mood of the city due to ongoing Parliamentary (Loksabha) elections, they presented a election special item naming it as "Nirbachoni Sandesh". (Election (special) Sandesh). What a imagination and timing in naming the item! Their show cases are filled with this eye-fetching sweets embossed with symbols of various political parties. Bengalis truly love their mishti!     

Hyderabadi Manse

Reading "Hyderabadi Manse" a book on the history of the men in the Court of last Nizam of Hyderabad in Marathi, including the last Nizam himself! I know many Hyderabadi personalities from the Court of the last Nizam of Hyderabad who left indelible impression on my mind while I was growing up. Then, I did not understand their importance or significance in the life of my forefathers. But since last 30+ years, I started to understand what they did to the lives of my forefathers. And the study still continues! So fascinating and exiting!

The grand old man of SSP-Khushwant Singhji

Khushwant Singhji is no more! He passed away today at the grand age of 99. I got the news on my mobile app when I was in the High Court. Suddenly, my mood changed. Went in deep sorrow. Luckily, my important matters were over by then. Couldn't resist myself reading Urdu poetry this entire evening in the memory of my dear Khushwant Singhji. Urdu poetry, so near and dear to him. He was my inspiration to read and enjoy Urdu poetry besides Gulzar sahab. I learned to read and write Urdu many years back because of my admiration to these two towering personalities and of course towards Ghazals. I must add other two reasons. One, my passion for history of Nizamshahi, Hyderabad and Berar. Two, my passion for history if partition of India, especially Punjab Presidency. I am fortunate, for the last 5-6 years I could live, whenever in Delhi, at the same colony where he lived; Sujan Singh Park or simply SSP for all Delhiwalas. The colony established and constructed by his father in the name if his grandfather! RIP Khushwant Singhji. You added colours in my otherwise black and white life. 

Mishti Doi of Calcutta

Mishti Doi, for quite some time, in fact,  I mean for years, I was under the impression that it is just sweetened curd. But I must confess, I was wrong! Mishti Doi is something entirely different! Oh! it is an institution by itself! To realize what it is, you must visit one of the authentic and traditional Mishti Shop in Calcutta. It is suckled not only at dinner time but before lunch too! And not in those ugly plastic jars what we use in Maharashtra, but in real earthen Kulhad! ( I prefer to call it Kulhad as it used to be in erstwhile Bengal Presidency, rather than "Bhand" in pure Bengali) I have myself seen many Bong ladies having it directly sucking from the Kulhad or rather "Bhand" just before lunch time at Gariahat in Calcutta! The only regret, I could not click them in my camera for obvious reasons! (Though I was carrying my camera with me at that time) But believe me, the expressions on their faces were just divine! Oh, one of my friend just triggered the recent experience in my mind! Thank you my dear friend.  

Jorasanko

I am still deeply immersed in the area of Jorasanko of Calcutta. So much of original material written in the early as well as middle nineteenth century is available with me! In the mean time, I ran into the meaning of the term "Jorasanko". The book says, Jora, in Bengali, means Two and Sanko means wooden bridge. It actually refers to two wooden bridge which may be in existence much before the Tagore family built its Thakur Badi in the vicinity. Today, as I found, is the most fascinating area of Calcutta; especially at evening time! The tract between Marble Palace and Thakur Badi within Jorasanko offers the most exciting history and the buildings associated with it. Only thing is that, you should know it!     

Prince Anwar Shah Road

Recently came accross some paintings in oil paint, depicting departure and reception of sons of Tipu Sultan by Lord Cornwolis, the then Governor General at Calcutta, as hostages. The sons were initially kept at Vellore prison and then shifted to Calcutta. Today, one of the main road connecting Gariahat corner to Eastern Metropolitan By-Pass is named as Prince Anwar Shah Road; one of those sons of Tipu! I used to pass through that road almost every day during my recent visit to Calcutta and have decided to find out everything about Prince Anwar Shah, which I did!